Ah, Tulúm. The first time I visited, I was 22, and took a 60 peso “luxury” bus from my Airbnb in Puerto Morelos, and to be honest, I wasn’t even that interested in going. But once I got to the view from the cliffs at the ruins, I was hooked.
This was in 2012. Back then, the now-famed Hartwood had been open maybe 18 months (and I didn’t even go to that part of Tulum until my third trip). Only a few of the hard hitting hotels existed back then, and they weren’t even on my radar. That first time I went to Tulum, we walked from the ruins to Playa Paraíso, which was more than enough to make me fall in love with this seemingly undiscovered paradise. And for the record, even then, it was far from undiscovered.
Tulum’s been on the hot list for several years now, and there’s a good reason why. It’s the ultimate place to relax on the beach, dine at incredible restaurants, and admire a minimalist beach chic design aesthetic. And there are many, many ways you can do up Tulum – it can easily add up to a pricey trip, but at the same time, you can explore Tulum and the Mayan Riviera on the cheap. And that’s really how I prefer to do Tulum!
To be completely honest, I’ve never been able to convince myself to fork over the cash for a room in one of Tulum’s boutique beachfront hotels… because even when you don’t do Tulum to the nines, it’s a pristine beach with great food and plenty to do. Here are my pro tips to getting the best value out of every dollar you spend on a trip to Tulum.
Where to Stay — Tulum Pueblo vs. Tulum Beach
I was an early adopter to the Airbnb scene – and the first time I used the website was actually to visit Puerto Morelos, a town about an hour north of Tulum. We visited Tulum for a day trip, on a recommendation from our host, back in 2011.
Then, there’s Tulum Pueblo, which is less luxurious, a little rough, and much cheaper. I prefer traveling on the more adventurous side, so when I visit Tulum, I like to book an Airbnb in Tulum Pueblo – there are so, so many great options for luxe apartments and villas when you expand your search from the beach areas. Tulum Pueblo is about a 10-minute drive away from the beach areas (check the map above!)
Staying in Tulum Pueblo
Pros: better value for per dollar, and the ability to get a glimpse of what Tulum is like for people who live there – cheaper, less touristy, and easier to use as a jumping off point for other adventures on the Mayan Riviera.
Cons: not walking distance to the beach, dirt roads, and the need to rent a car. Related to that — dealing with parking when you go to Tulum Beach.
Staying in Tulum Beach
Pros: walking distance to restaurants, bars, and ruins. Posh hotels and wellness retreats, no need to rent a car
Cons: Expensive, boujie, touristy.
Real talk: If you’re someone who really values exploring and adventuring in your travels, then finding a nice Airbnb in Tulum Pueblo is probably going to be a great option for you. But if you’re someone who likes the luxuries of boutique hotels and the convenience of walking to dinner, then Tulum Beach is probably a better value!
Alas, I have never been much of a luxury traveler – I swear by Airbnb, and when I travel alone, you’ll probably find me in a hostel, taking swigs from a bottle of rum, with 5 new traveler friends. So this is my guide to Tulum on the cheap: what’s good, what’s expensive, and what’s worth it. If you haven’t done Airbnb before, and think I’ve sold you on it, please do use my link for referrals!
Where to Eat
Hartwood: You’re likely to read and hear a lot about Hartwood. I’ve had two fantastic experiences there — but my advice would be to focus on the ceviche and sides, and just order an entree if it really speaks to you.
ARCA: One of the best meals of my life. Go here.
Taqueria La Eufemia: cheap, awesome beach tacos. Great spot to escape the upscale Tulum visitors that tend to hail from NYC.
Kitchen Table: Treehouse-like atmosphere, great service, and where I learned to love Mexican wine.
Casa Jaguar: went here for a first meal on a trip with five friends, and they did not disappoint. Great food and cocktails, and the best service.
Gitano: cocktails were fantastic, and dinner was alright. Go for the drinks, the people watching, and the open air disco ball atmosphere.
MurMur: underappreciated, but solid. The short ribs are what stand out to me the most.
Tabano: Mexican grandma-style cooking. If you’re somehow sick of ceviche…
Literally any beachfront spot with a bar — it’s all good. Live your life.
Antojitos la chiapneca – only open at night. Line out the door, but it’s worth it. Known for tacos al pastor.
El Camello – ceviche institution for the locals. Get the small… grande is extreme
El Milagrito – cute spot for a beer or three during the day. Fun bar at night! Good escape from the usual Tulúm beach crowd hailing from UES.
Ki bok – cute little coffee shop if you find yourself in Tulúm town and in need of a cheap brunch.
What to Do
Tulum’s known for it’s cliffside Mayan ruins, which are really cool to explore. It costs about $6 USD to enter the park, and you can walk around all the building structures. On the ocean side, there’s a view point with stairs down to the ocean, where the waves crash against a little beach cove. Make sure you bring your swimsuit and some drinking water — this place gets hot.
The Yucatan Peninsula is known for its incredible sinkholes — in this part of the world, they’re called cenotes. Though there are several pretty close to Tulum itself, my personal favorite is hidden in the jungle near Puerto Morelos, about an hour or so north of Tulum. Drive yourself in a rental, or hire a taxi to find Siete Bocas — all the locals will all know where it is. Entrance fee is about USD $20, and it’s well worth the price. The cenote has six openings (there used to be 7, but they collapsed 2 holes into one giant one). Some have stairs for accessing, and others require a leap of faith! Say hi to Maria, and practice your Spanish. Bring a lunch and relax a bit.
Snorkeling off Playa Paraíso
Just south of las ruinas, you’ll find a beach that’s mostly used by the locals — a couple of beach bars with cheap cervezas and some bachata music set the scene. If you’re as lucky as I was, a local will offer to take you snorkeling in one of the boats on the beach. Pick up a six pack of Sóls at the bar, and hop on the boat to check out the reefs.
Siam Ka’an Biosphere Reserve
Also further south of the ruins is a huge wildlife reserve — to get there, you can either continue driving down the Tulum Beach road (and be prepared for a dusty, long, dirt road). Or, you can Enter through the town of Muyil, from the main Cancun highway. If you enter through Muyil, you can take a boat tour for about USD $45 and hopefully see birds, dolphins, and sea turtles! We explored a bit through the Tulum Beach road, and unfortunately didn’t see anything — but I’ve heard great things from people who have made a day trip out of it.
Bringing the monthly playlists back — March is almost half way through, but better late than never, right?
Those of you who know me have an inkling for how desperately passionate I am about curating playlists. I might not know the name of every artist I hear, but if that song incites an emotion that I want to carry around with me, you can bet I’ve subtly Shazammed it added it to one of my many, many mood, season, and trip-themed music mementos.
So here we are: March. I’ve traveled a bit already, and I’m ready for my next escape (Tulúm, again, next week). Enjoy these chill beats and let March take off. And if you want more… follow along on Spotify.